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Updated: August 2026

ISSEY MIYAKEWhat Is 3D Steam Stretch?

Q: What is Issey Miyake 3D Steam Stretch?

3D Steam Stretch is an Issey Miyake textile technology that transforms flat fabric into sculptural three-dimensional forms using heat and steam. Unlike traditional pleating, which is applied after a garment is sewn, Steam Stretch uses specially engineered woven fabric that naturally transforms into a three-dimensional shape through controlled shrinkage during the steaming process.

Q: How was 3D Steam Stretch developed?

In 2013, then ISSEY MIYAKE designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae began exploring new ways to create pleats beyond conventional techniques. Inspired by the Computational Origami exhibition at the University of Tokyo, he explored how folded structures could be expressed through textile design. This research eventually led to the development of Steam Stretch.

Q: When was 3D Steam Stretch introduced?

3D Steam Stretch was first presented in the Spring/Summer 2015 collection, unveiled during Paris Fashion Week in 2014.

Features and Differences from Traditional Pleats

Issey Miyake's 3D Steam Stretch is an innovative textile technology that transforms flat fabric into sculptural three-dimensional forms using heat and steam. Unlike traditional pleating, which is applied after a garment is sewn, Steam Stretch uses specially engineered woven fabric that naturally transforms into a three-dimensional shape through controlled shrinkage during the steaming process.

Its distinctive sculptural forms and voluminous silhouettes have made it highly regarded by collectors and designer fashion enthusiasts around the world.

Issey Miyake 3D Steam Stretch sculptural silhouette

01 — Origins

How Was 3D Steam Stretch Developed?

In 2013, then ISSEY MIYAKE designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae began exploring new ways to create pleats beyond conventional techniques. Inspired by the Computational Origami exhibition at the University of Tokyo, he explored how folded structures could be expressed through textile design. This research eventually led to the development of Steam Stretch.

Source: Episode 13 / Unfolded by Folds: Four-Dimensional Technology and Design

02 — Debut

When Was 3D Steam Stretch Introduced?

3D Steam Stretch was first presented in the Spring/Summer 2015 collection, unveiled during Paris Fashion Week in 2014. The collection attracted attention for introducing a completely new approach to creating three-dimensional textiles.

03 — Comparison

What Is the Difference Between 3D Steam Stretch and Traditional Pleats?

Although it may resemble PLEATS PLEASE at first glance, the technologies are fundamentally different.

Traditional pleated garments achieve their shape by heat-setting pleats after the garment is sewn. In contrast, 3D Steam Stretch creates sculptural, architectural forms by allowing specially engineered woven fabric to transform naturally with heat and steam.

ISSEY MIYAKE / PLEATS PLEASE

Traditional Pleats

When the shape is madeAfter the garment is sewn
How the shape is madePleats are heat-set into the finished garment
ResultRegular, repeating pleated surfaces

Issey Miyake

3D Steam Stretch

When the shape is madeDuring the steaming process
How the shape is madeSpecially engineered woven fabric transforms naturally through controlled shrinkage with heat and steam
ResultSculptural, architectural three-dimensional forms

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